Jochen Beurer - Grau Burgunder 'Stettener Pulvermächer' 2015
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Jochen makes several tiers of wines, and this Grau Burgunder, better known as Pinot Gris, is among his finest.
It's so far removed from Alsatian Pinot Gris, and so rarely seen from Württemberg, that there are few reference points for Beurer's version. First of all it's completely dry, with no noticeable residual sugar. The colour is a shimmering orange and pink, and the nose features aromas such as orange marmalade, apricots, flowers, flint and a vein of minerality.
It's grown on the same type of soil as the Schilfsandstein Riesling, but the way Pinot Gris manifests here is so different. There's a simultaneous lightness and richness to the palate, and while the wine seems to be ripe and rich, there's no cloying sweetness. Remarkable.
Annual Production: N/A
Blend: Pinot Gris
Terroir: Ancient sea limestone
Winemaking: Stainless steel
Certification: Certified Biodynamic by Demeter and Ecovin
Drinking Window: 2017-2025
- Jochen Beurer does not make ordinary Riesling. It's as simple as that, but also as complicated as that. Why does his Riesling taste different? It's a matter of the terroir, as well as his personality. His estate is situated in Swabia, at the farthest southern end of Germany, where he farms on a variety of Jurassic and Triassic soils on the hills around Kernen im Remstal.
Jochen started working in organics in 2003, and moved to biodynamics within a few years. As a former BMX champion, he has an almost crazed single-mindedness to make the most precise, terroir-focused Rieslings as possible. He doesn't separate his cuvées based on sweetness—he separates them based on soil type.