Domaine des Terres Dorées - Bourgogne Rouge 2019
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Nowadays it's trendy for Burgundy makers to dabble into Beaujolais, taking advantage of cheaper land to make their own interpretation of Gamay. So it's only fair that old masters such as Jean-Paul Brun of Domaine des Terres Dorées are allowed to make their own Bourgogne Rouges.
The fruit from this excellent-valued Pinot Noir comes from Brun's own 3ha vineyard in Charnay, which he planted back in 1991. The cuvee continues to improve as the vines grow deeper each year into the clay-limestone soils that mark this wonderful terroir. As with all of Brun's wines, this is entirely balanced and not just "well-made", but "perfectly-made". It's absolutely clean and fragrant, but not simple and boring.
Annual Production: N/A
Blend: 100% Pinot Noir
Terroir: Sandy, limestone-rich clay
Winemaking : Malolactic fermentation, lees stirred periodically, aged in steel and concrete tank until bottling in the spring
Drinking Window: 2020-2030
90 Points, John Gilman November 2020
"It has been about a year since I last tasted a bottle of the 2018 Pinot Noir bottling from Jean-Paul Brun and the wine continues to show very well in deed. The bouquet offers up a refined blend of cherries, strawberries, pigeon, lovely soil tones, raw cocoa, a bit of thyme and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is fullish, tangy and intensely flavored, with a good core and soil transparency, suave tannins and a long, tangy and nascently complex finish. This is a fine middleweight example of the vintage, tipping the scales at a svelte 12.5 percent alcohol and it will drink beautifully in due course, but still needs a few more years’ worth of bottle age before drinking. 2024-2045. "
Jean-Paul Brun is a tall, imposing, yet whisper-quiet man who lives in a rural, cobblestone medieval village just Northwest of Lyon, within southern Burgundy. The village, Charnay, sits dead center in the so called “Terres Dorées,” an area named after the golden calcareous stones lining its rolling hillside vineyards.
Brun has built a devoted and passionate following for his wines by sidestepping the Beaujolais trend of producing soft, carbonic-macerated, whole-berry “Beaujolais style” reds. Instead, he pursues a Burgundian approach by ruthlessly hand sorting and destemming all fruit at harvest. His wines are often aged (and sometimes fermented) in neutral Burgundian oak barrels.